Homework, Food, Sleep. It's All I Want

I am tired. Between my aching legs from running yesterday, an early morning with Pier Paolo, and a long passagata this afternoon all I am craving right now is a hot dinner and bed. While my pasta cooks I'll tell you about my day.

This morning my renaissance class met at San Clemente by the Colosseo at 9:30. That is waaay far away at 9 in the morning. I planned out my bus routes over breakfast and rolled out the door just on time. Sadly the buses in Rome were not kind to me this morning. I waited at the Chiesa Nuova for 20 or 30 minutes before giving up and running to Largo Argentina where I know there are buses everywhere. I grabbed a different bus than I originally planned but they post every stop on the signs so I knew it was going to the colosseum. At the Wedding Cake the bus reached the end of it's circular route and took a break. So either I could try and maneuver my way to San Clemente, I knew it wasn't far but I wasn't sure of my directions, or I could sit and wait ten minutes for the bus to start the loop again and drop me off. I decided to wait it out. Then the bus driver kicked everyone off the bus to the bus sitting waiting behind it. It ran the same loop so I don't know why we had to switch but we started up again quickly. After that it was a walk in the park. I got off at the right stop and found the church and looked for the group of 20 year olds with backpacks. Found 'em! After admiring the golden mosaic apse for a while Pier Paolo showed us to Masolino's chapel! He painted frescoes with a tiny bit of help from his pupil Masaccio! Sadly the chapel has been really badly damaged by water over the years and was restored in the 70's. When they removed the frescoes to clean them they found the sinopia underneath was really well preserved and now that is on display near the chapel. It was exciting to see the early work of such an influential artist.

The apse with Jesus as the tree of life

Masolino's Chapel

An angel saving St. Catherine

St. Catherine converting the scholars
Note her blessing them as they burn in the background
thanks to the mean emperor in the doorway

After San Clemente we walked to Santi Quattro Coronati where they shrank the church size down and made a second atrium. It is now a monastery but we could work around the (now) small church that has a huge apse and lovely frescoes. In a chapel in this church there is a frieze of a mural painting showing the conversion of Constantine and his "donation" which is perhaps the Catholic churches biggest lie. The story told is: Constantine had leprosy but was such a good person he did not take a bath in babies blood (which was thought to be the cure), he then had a dream with two men and told him to go see the Pope. The Pope showed him the images of St. Peter and St. Mark and Constantine recognized them as the men from his dream and is healed of leprosy. He instantly converted to Christianity. The "donation" is when Constantine supposedly gave the Pope not only spiritual power but imperial power. Constantine moved the capital to Istanbul/Constantinople because (according to the church) he was giving the Pope ruling power over the western half of the Roman empire. In reality the Eastern border was constantly under act so Constantine moved the capital closer to have tighter control over the area. Either way the church still claims ownership of the land and ruling power, which is why a part of every tax in Italy goes to the Catholic church! Interesting story. 

Constantine giving the tiara and parisole to the pope
before leading him into Rome

The large apse and teeny tiny naive

After my field study today I was free!! Only one class before my 4:30pm Italian. I came home and posted an update for yesterday, did some homework, I made a list of words I am constantly forgetting how to say in Italian and wrote a brief email to Anna for Italian practice. This afternoon I made a trip to the store and had lunch and chatted with my roommates. 

For Italian class today we went walking around my neighborhood (because it is close to the center) and explored churches and monuments that are "grotesque" which is a style of art that is in fact not very attractive. We stopped to look at a building literally right next door to our apartment! Then our teacher kept leading us down small windy streets (which I usually avoid for fear of getting lost). She even took us to the Piazza di Pompeii where Julius Caesar was murdered. All along the way she pointed out economical but authentic places to eat or get coffee etc. It was a relaxing afternoon but I was soooo tired for some reason. 

This building allowed me to say "Cuiress" many times

A little grotesque for your day

The fountain I presented on which I pass most days

My legs and brain and exhausted right now. After our walk I went with Julie to get bread from Filippo and then home. I plopped down and now am dreading getting up and going again to make some dinner. A girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do. Veggies and pasta tonight, potluck again tomorrow after my exciting field studies!!